Category: France

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Antithese 2006

I tasted the 2007 vintage with Guilhem in the morning but then over lunch tasted the 2006! Oh yes. This is simply delicious. Syrah as it should be with a touch of 100 year old Carignan grapes.

Mr Whirly says:

“ This wine is as pure an expression of Syrah with a dash of Carignan ( from those amazing one hundred year old vines planted in granite that you see on the Ribas wine page) as one would want to feel. Deep wine with some lovely age but the fruit is still rich and strong.”

Winemakers notes:

“It’s got  a deep bright red colour. A complex combination of red fruits, smokiness and spiciness. The good acidity carries this complexity of aromas throughout the palate. Good length. Hints of black fruit and flower. Better to be decanted half an hour before serving. To be served around 16°C.

Alc Vol: 13.5%

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Rouge No 9,Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalane

New vintage No 9 ( 2009) arrived January 2014

Mr Whirly says:

“This wine represents Riberach’s benchmark wine, their really exciting wine at a great price. It is a wine that is made from their youngest vines, 30 years: Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and oaked for 18 months. The vines are grown on a Schist soil which gives the wine a smokey feel. Top, top wine. A delight and again fantastic value.”

Winemakers notes:

“It’s got deep bright red colour ; smoky, creamy nose. A Good mouth fill without astringency; hints of black fruit. “

Alc vol: 14.5%

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Riberach Blanc, Synthese, 2012

New wine arrival, November 2013 and a  new wonderful wine to whirl!

My first white from Riberach, who are now a fully accepted Bio-Dynamic and Organic vineyard. These guys know how to make wines,

As they say themselves:

“ we are 4 friends, is an idea of old vines on schist and granite soils at high altitude, is a matter of philosophy reflected in 30,000 bottles and 10 hectares of vines.”

This wine is oh so subtle, so light and fresh. Most wines form this part of France are not like this, then again this wine is not like most wines. Look at the grapes: Grenache Blanc ( sexy grape is ever there was one) Carignan ( I have yet to find out if they are from the 100 year old vines growing out of the Granite rock that I went wild about in August 2011)and  the local grape, Maccabeu. An infinitely superior wine and one that I think many of my clients, including my best man, need to try!

Mr whirly says: ( wine tasting notes to follow once I have tasted this wine with clients)

Winemakers tasting notes: ( to follow shortly)

Alc Vol: 12.0%

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Roussillon: Riberach

otoThe new Riberach “ Synthese”  Blanc 2012 arrived November 2013.  The wine is made from Grenache Blanc, Carignan and Maccabeu and comes in at a very light 12% alc vol, which is unheard of in these parts. Riberach are now a fully recognised Biodynamic and Organic winery.

Just in case you were wondering, “Riberach” is the old name for the town before the Catalan’s came to this part of France and “Belesta de frontier” is the name since it use to be the frontier with Spain.

I am blessed. I had driven from the foot of the Pyrenee’s near the famous Monastery at St Martin near Vernet and had ringed on a local Rousillon map the top places to go to in terms of wine, having talked to the owner of a local wine shop the day before in Prades. It’s the morning of the 18th August 2011 and my journey north back to “Blighty” begins in earnest today, since my ferry leaves Dieppe in 3 days. I arrive at Belesta, just south of Maury, where I was focusing my wine tasting on this day and in the middle of town is the most amazing old cooperative that has been totally transformed into a modern hotel, wine shop and winery. I enter the winery, meet Guilhem and end up staying for eight hours, tasting his wines and having lunch in the restaurant. He is a much travelled man: like myself he has spent time in Australia working in the vineyards, he more as a winemaker than as a picker and blender and presser! I love his attitude, very positive and we very simply had so much to talk about it was a delight to meet someone who you immediately connect with. I love his branding, the snail really works for me and his wines are benchmark wines that exude finesse.

We are starting with two wines from this vineyard, decided after a seven hour lunch and tasting. I also met the vineyard manager, Jean-Michel, whose family has owned the land with the vines for over 100 years.

This was a lovely tour, since he showed me some wonderful “Jean de Florette” irrigation systems as well as vines that had been planted by hand by his grandfather, with an iron rod, into Granite! I kid you not: quite incredible ( a picture to prove this is below.)

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I also met a third partner, Patrick – the winemaker, who is the gentlemen cleaning the oak barrels in the picture below. Missing was Moritz – the Austrian sommelier- and Luc – the architect and co-owner of the restaurant-hotel resort).

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The three wines from Riberach are listed below

Riberach Blanc, Synthese 2012

Rouge no 7

Antithese 2006

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Bandol: Chateau D’Azur

Chateau D’Azur, Bandol, 2009

I have always wanted a Bandol in the pack and now I have one! Karen Frankel (my buddy from San Francisco on this wine sourcing trip in July 2011) and I were incredibly excited about  our little trip to Bandol. We again cut to the chase and found a lovely wine shop in rather a disappointing town centre, sadly, too many tourists shops and headed out of town to discover the delights of the surrounding countryside. The next morning, after much driving around the country roads and getting lost, the art of following signs to vineyards that then suddenly disappear, again being witnessed by ourselves we eventually drove into the unassuming driveway of Chateau D’Azur. Our efforts were not in vain!

This wine is made by up and coming star Gael Cluchier for owner Paul Chavel. Made from 90% Mourvedre and the remaining 10% is made up from small parcels of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah.

Mr whirly says:

“ Juicy and fruit forward yet unlike a lot of Bnadols this wine drinks so well immediately after the cork has been taken out of the bottle.  Great fruit forward wine yet with subtle summer herb aroma’s“

Winemakers notes:

“ The vines were planted in 1990. We do not use chemical products on the vines and we also use Organic fertiliser. Hand picked in small bins. Yield: 30hl/ha. Crushed and de-stemmed. Fermented and Macerated over three weeks and pumped over everyday. Pressed after three weeks and blended with the freely run juice. Malolactic fermentation before the winter. 18 Months in Bordeaux Oak barrels. Blended and bottled in the summer of 2011. Intensely dark colour. This wine is strong. Spicy (pepper, cinnamon and Liquorice) and also Toasty. Decant and leave for one hour. Good ageing potential

Alc vol: 14.0%

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Cairanne, 2009

This wine is now sold out. New Vintage arrives March-April 2014.

It’s a right old Cairanne! And this really is anything but. Not old in anyway and very fresh and exciting, this lesser known Cotes de Rhone Village is very much treading its own path into the new age of wine growing in France, where wines that sell at that optimum price point, £10-14, really are shining through. I tasted this wine with Audrey Armand on that sun blessed evening on the 27th July 2011 and thought it was exactly what I wanted in a top quality Rhone, that doesn’t have the price tag of some of the better known appellations a little further south but most definitely has the quality. This wine is made from older vines, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. If you can, decant and leave for an hour.

Mr Whirly says:

“ A pure delight of joy. I bought this wine from the little village north of more recognised names in Southern Rhone because it provides great quality at a great price. This is a special cuvee and like all their wines, the grapes are picked with meticulous attention and care. Smooth and juicy with hints of tabacco and liquorice as well as a hint of black cherries and white pepper. Fantastic value for the quality of the wine.”

Alc vol: 14.5%

Winemakers notes:

This is a Special cuvée – limited production wine. AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages, Cairanne , Cuvée LOUIS red 2009.

Terroir: hill side limestone. Old vine Grenache, 50%, 25% Syrah, 25% Mourvedre. Hand harvested and selective picking. De-stemming, long maceration, aged in oak barrels that are two years old for 6 months. This wine has a deep red purple colour, the nose is intense and complex, black pepper, mineral and after breathing we discover ripe aromas of cherry and coulis sauce with light toasted notes. In the mouth this wine has a well balanced structure, powerful with fruit flavours and elegant tannins with a long finish with some light vanilla showing through. Can be aged for up to 6 years and drinking beautifully now.

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Rasteau, 2009

Something has always excited me about this name: Rasteau! It evokes a slightly mischievous thought, I guess because the name sounds a little like rascal. Anyway, although not a picturesque as Sablet, up on the hill a few miles away, this little town is just as famous for great wines!

Mr Whirly says:

“  Luscious fruit on this wine. Love it: this is Mr Whirly’s Rasteau! I tasted this wine at a wine dinner with James Rix at the Fox and Hounds in November 2011 and it was incredibly perfumed and scented with violets.  A subtle wine, which is unusual for a Rasteau. Really very impressive.”

Winemakers notes:

“ Terroir: large pebbles and clay. 60% Grenache, 40% Mourvedre. Hand harvested and selective picking. This wine has a nice ruby colour. The nose is complex and intense with some aromas of ripe red fruits, cherry, strawberry. The structure is fleshy, well-balanced with fine tannins and elegant peppery notes. Can be aged for up to 5 years.”

Alc vol:14.5%

Price: sold out until new vintage arrives April 2014

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A.O.C Cote de Rhone, 2009, “ La Combe d’Antide”

Incredibly excited about my first Cote de Rhone! Yeah! We are making giant strides!

I searched one frantic afternoon  in the summer of  2011 for something good and found Audrey and Domaine Armand on a 40 degree centigrade afternoon on the 30th July 2011!

Mr Whirly says:

“ The wine is made from 70 year old vines, grown on sand and limestone, 70% Grenache and 30% Carignan. Small production, 43 hls, lovely fresh fruit structure, all one would want in a Cote De Rhone. I like the fact it has no Shiraz in the wine since the wine is given a fresh without this grape. I hope a winner for restaurants who need a quality Cote de Rhone by the glass.  Hand picked grapes, juicy and ripe fresh fruit that really stands out in the glass. Really exciting wine for the price.”

Winemakers notes:

Terroir: Sandstone and limestone

Hand harvested and selective grape picking. The wine has a deep cherry red colour, brilliant and clear. The nose is very intense with ripped fruit aromas and a note of leather and Kirsch. In the mouth the structure is very round and soft with a very good concentration of spices, liquorice and fruits, with a fresh final finish. Pleasant to drink now or can be aged for 2-3 more years.

Alc vol:14.5%

Sold out: new vintage arrives July 2013

Price: Sold out until new vintage arrives April 2014

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Domaine Armand

I have always found Rhone wines exciting: the complex blending of varietals I imagine has something to do with it. Also, what I like about the Rhone is that generally the quality of the wine is solid. I am very rarely left leaving Rhone feeling disappointed, Cote Rotie, maybe being the one exception. So it was a plan to find some wines that were a little different and as always with a Whirly wine, made with some passion.

I found Domaine Armand on Wednesday 27th July 2011 after a long day hunting in the Rhone for hidden gems. I found some lovely ones, sadly not hidden though, since all were represented in the UK.  I was not about to give up though and I visited Domaine Richaud, where Marie, having told me that their wines were with Liberty, told me that she had a cousin that also made wine. So in the late afternoon of  that day I found Domaine Armand, in the country outside of Cairanne and loved their wines. One can tell they are made by hand and with a little bit of extra attention. I have imported three of their wines, listed below:

Cote de Rhone 2009, “ La Combe De Antibe”

Rasteau 2009

Cairanne 2009

(pictures below were taken when I re-visited the vineyard on the 15th August to get a feel for the soil and land)

History of the vineyard ( winemakers notes)

The estate Armand’s Vineyard exists for more than 80 years.

In 1990, Jean-Paul ARMAND, Rosie ARMAND and their son Patrice set themselves up as the EARL “La Magnaneraie”.

In the course of generations, we have  preserved the vineyard and contributed to its extension. It stretches now over 35 hectares.

We began in 2002 the creation of the chai (cellar). In 2003 we carried out our first vinification, with 200 hectolitres; the rest of the production had to stay in the cooperative, waiting for the shares’ expiry. The production for 2003 was of the order of 12,000 bottles. In 2004 the entire production 1,500 hl is stored in our Chai and we are able to expand our range of wines. The great diversity of the estate’s soil allows us to make wines with different labels and to guarantee our wines typical characteristics. In 2004 the production is of the order of 27,000 bottles, divided in four labels.

The Domain possesses a very diversified soil, that allows us to have a production with various names and to guarantee the typicité ( expression) of our wines. We are the owners of vineyards in Cairanne and Rasteau. In 2005 the winery produced 35,00 bottles

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Emile Balland, Neury-sur-Loire, Coteaux de Giennois, “Les Beaux Jours” Blanc et Rouge, 2011 and 2010 Vintages

Mr Whirly says:

“ I love Emile’s wines since they are made from the heart. Emile’s father was a winemaker in a little town called Bue, just north of Sancerre and the families history of winemaking dates back to 1650. He is putting this lost appellation, that was forgotten about after being destroyed by phylloxera  in the 19th century and Sancerre and Pouilly took the limelight, very much back on the map.  It gained its own Appellation status very recently, in 1998 so its got a lot of catching up to do, but Emile Balland, mark my words, will lead the way.”

We are starting off with Emile’s two benchmark wines that stamp his winemaking skills and expertise onto the UK wine market with a very profound and permanent thud!

“ Les Beaux Jours”; The beautiful days! What could be more apt and positive in a title!

The white wine is hand picked, 100% Sauvignon and is from the youngest vines planted in 2000. On the lee’s ferment: great ample and full mouth feel. Wonderful example of the skill and passion of this young winemaker and a really superb price too for the quality of the wine in the bottle.

The red is 80% Pinot Noir, 20% Gamay.  Again from the youngest vines, Light, fresh and again with a gorgeous mouth feel.  I beg anyone not to like this soft and alluring wine.

Alc vol:12.0%

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Emile and Dash, my faithful hound inspect the grapes…

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…as well as play stick fetching