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Jean-Michel Sorbe Quincy AOC, ” Les Berry Curiens” 2010

Mr Whirly says:

The “ King of Quincy” wines are here at last!!

I have visited Jean- Michel Sorbe’s vineyard, thanks I  might add to Armelle Poole-Connor , wife of a very old family friend Murray, whose family are cousins of the Sorbes, on two occasions now. On the first occasion I drove to the wrong Preuilly ( there are two in France) with Simon Thomas,  a close friend from my Bibendum days, and rang rather embarrassingly to say that I would not be there for lunch, since I had arrived at the wrong Preuilly, thankfully only 100 kms due west of this pretty little village on the Cher river and there were no vineyards in evidence in the surrounding countryside. I arrived for dinner instead. Good start Whirly! ( the offending map with a 20 franc price tag on it lies abreast “ The Booter” with a light lunch above it, before it had caused such agony in missing madame Sorbe’s lunch)

On the second occasion, in July 2012 I sped over to Preuilly from just south of Sancerre, through the lovely forests and rolling hills to meet “ The King of Quincy” again, very much in  a hurry since I was due back in Sancerre to meet Vincent Gaudry later that day. I tasted with Jean-Michel Sorbe his 2010 “ Les Berry Curiens” and ordered it. Its benchmark Sauvignon and in its way so different to Sancerre. This wine is also made from  some of the oldest vineyards that Mousieur Sorbe owns, over 80 years old.

Why the name?

The “Epicurean berry”, derived from the monks at the Abbaye de Beauvoir and their brotherhood in 1234 is now a group of friends with Jean-Michel at the head and they are following the same lines of work.

The “ King of Quincy” wines are here at last!Jean-Michel Sorbe really is the man that has put this ‘home” of Sauvignon Blanc in the world (this famous grape was originally grown at the Abbaye de Beauvoir just down the road from Preuilly and Quincy). He is recognized as one of the most important figures in Loire winemaking.  This is top Sauvignon blanc, hand-picked from four separate vineyards, fresh yet with loads of zingy depth. This is one of the finest examples of traditional Sauvignon Blanc, out of tank and into the bottle.

Both vineyards are located in the heart of Berry (Approximately 200 km south of Paris), a few kilometres west of Bourges. This is not the Loire proper but south and slightly east, on the banks of the beautiful river Cher.

Alc vol:13.0%

photo

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Vincent Gaudry, Les Petit Chambre, Sancerre. “Constellation du Scorpion”, 2010

Mr Whirly says:

“ I visited Vincent’s little hamlet on the road running west of Sancerre on the 30th July this year. He’s such an unassuming fellow that it took me 90 minutes to find his house and shed where he makes his sublime wines, no signage being present on the little streets of “Les Petit Chambre” at all. He makes wines in a very careful way and indeed secretive. Some of the wines I taste that afternoon I am not allowed to know where their origin is. I did not believe that Sancerre should be oaked before I tasted his Scorpion label wine. Now I am convinced.

Vincent Gaudry is well known throughout the business as one of France’s most secretive winemakers. What is known of him, however, is that he is very much at one with nature. He harvests his crop, ‘when the vines tell him to’ while his vineyard is home to an array of standing stones which he believes his ancestors constructed in an effort to channel energy between earth and heaven. One thing that is common knowledge however, is the sublime quality of his wines, which are among the Loire’s most stunning, surely justification for the unusual methods which Vincent utilises.

On average the vines are 35 years old. Meticulous care and manual harvest. Vincent is there every step of the way, including the several months the wines are aged on the lees before bottling.

Alc vol: 13.0%

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Cote de Bourg, Chateau les Graves de Viaud, 2009, “ Cuvee Prestige.”

I am really proud to present my first Bordeaux to you all. I never thought I would go down this route with my wine  business and source a wine thats a little

“mainstream” shall we say, but you know what, its worth it! It speaks volumes for this wine region, north west of St Emilion and only a few miles across the Garonne from  the famous Chateau’s like Leoville Les Cases in St Julien. Its therefore right up there in terms of terroir and location. This is Phillippe’s first vintage and a stonker it is too!

P1000070The expectant Merlot grapes on the 4th October 2012, the day before they were harvested

P1000072The vineyard and Chateau

P1000075An excited winemaker surveying his wine room the night before the harvest)

Mr Whirly says:

Philippe Betschart, Vigneron

This is Philippe’s first vintage; he bought the vineyard in late 2009 and made the wine himself after the grapes had been harvested. By all accounts its a great start to his new career since prior to this he was in computers! Lucious fruit with hints of tabacco and mushrooms, well integrated oak and a long finish. Bordeaux is a minefield at this price point. Here we really have something worth tasting. Its a pure delight.

Alc vol: 14.0%

Winemakers notes:

The vineyard

  • Total Surface: 11,5 hectares
  • Soil : Gravel, Silt and sand
  • Average age : 27 years

The Wine

  • Available Vintage : 2009, 2010
  • Special name : Grande Cuvée
  • Blend : 70% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% cabernet Franc
  • Vine’s average age : 27 year
  • Yield  : 48 hl/ha
  • Vinification: Stemming Fermentation 21 day in fermentation vats
  • Aging : 6 to 10 month in 1 to 3 years barrels
  • Production (Bottles) : 50 to 60 000
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Cote de Duras: Chateau Molhiere

Cote de Duras is Cote de Duras. This sounds logical but its actually something very important to emphasise. Its right on the border of the Bordeaux appellation, literally a few miles separates them but this region of France could not be more different than its more famous neighbour. There are no pretensions here. The wines are what they are: honest, clean and fresh and cracking value. The Blancheton brothers are the same, Patrick and Francis, once prop forwards in the local rugby side and Francis sports a fantastic moustache to match his physique.

I have been in love with this part of France since a little lad, when we had a house just up the road on the road to Bergerac in a little hamlet called Thenac.

When you think Bordeaux you think wonderful wines from the left bank, Leoville Les-Cases in St Julien being my favourite. But in terms of wines that you can find at a price point that most of us can afford nowadays, forget it, there’s not a chance of finding something decent at £6.95 a bottle. I am delighted with my Cote de Bourg at £11.95 a bottle yes but thats still £11.95.

When I visited the vineyard in October last year the Blancheton brothers were in the midst of vintage. The grapes were bubbling away in the  old tanks that they have here at the vineyard and it was incredibly exciting to witness a family heritage of four generation in full flow.

I have bought over three wines from this lovely little vineyard; A Sauvignon Blanc 2011, a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and   Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 and a rose made from the same grapes as the red.

I think these are fabulous every day drinking wines, really easy to drink and wonderful quality for the price.

Tasting notes: ( with the help of friend and client, Sarah Guignard at the French Table in Surbition, South west London.”

P1000137Sauvignon Blanc 2012, “ Terroir de Ducs”:

“ Mineral tones, zippy and balanced grapefruit, lemon and lime. Quite weighty.”

P1000138Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet 2011,“ Terroirs de Ducs”:

“ Earthy, raspberries with a hint of  herbs, soft easy drinking tannins.”

Alc vols: 13.5% for the red and rose, 13.0% for the white

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France

I have always been in love with south west France ever since my parents bought a house down there near Bergerac in the foothills of the Dordogne in between Monbazillac and Duras.

With this in mind, on the 24th July 2011, I ventured south into this wonderland to eke out some gems from such sublime lands as The Var, Vaucluse, The Rhone, Bandol, High Languedoc Hills, Roussillon, Cotes de Catalane, Gascony and also Cotes de Duras. Sadly I cannot bring all these wines in at once since there are about twenty delights that I found but we have a wonderful selection of eight wines arriving in late September 2011 from the following regions and wineries, all hunted down in the last month! Please read the recent travel page for other wines tasted on this tour, which will give you ideas for future imports.

Please click on the links below:

Cote de Duras, Dordogne

Chateau Molhiere

Cote de Bourg, Bordeaux

Chateau les Graves de Viaud 2009

The Loire

Vincent Gaudry

Jean-Michel Sorbe

Emile Balland

The Rhone

Domaine Armand

Bandol

Chateau D’Azur

Roussillon/Cotes Catalane

Riberach

Domaine du Mas Rous

Provence

Domaine Allois

The Photographs below were taken on this trip and give an idea of the colour and vibrancy of these wine regions.

P1010773Sunflowers in Gascony

P1010728Sunrise in Banyuls- sur- Mer

P1010744Vineyards around Banyul

P1010711Apt, Provence